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Fine Wood (Re)Finishing
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| Finishing a
piece of "stripped" furniture is the easy part. Stripping
is the messy part. Let's assume we're going to finish new wood (or
a piece that's already been stripped clean). |
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What are the steps in fine
wood finishing? |
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Which step is most important? |
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What are the secrets to the
sanding? The first is to sand in the direction of the grain. The second is to plan on sanding in "stages". That is, start with a coarse sandpaper - such as 60 or 80 grit and completely sand the entire piece being (re)finished. Use finer grit paper at each stage. The next stage would use a medium grit like 100. This would be followed with a fine paper like 150 grit. If a super-smooth surface is desired, finish off with 220 grit. Always sand in the direction of the grain. Sanding "cross-grain" will result in unsightly "scratches" on the finished job. |
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Can stain be applied right after sanding? Not really right after sanding. First, the sanding dust should be vacuumed from the surface. Then the surface should be wiped with a tack cloth (such as ALLPRO tack cloth) to remove dust and airborne lint. Tack cloth is cheese cloth impregnated with non-soiling resin that picks up the dust without leaving a residue on the wood. What if the wood has nail holes? If necessary, fill blemishes such as nail holes or splits in the wood with wood dough. If fortunate enough to be working with open grained woods like mahogany, walnut, oak or teak, consider using a paste wood filler. Paste wood fillers are important because the grooves and crevices in the grain, if left unfilled, will magnify when the topcoat or "varnish" is applied. Make sure to let the filler dry thoroughly - usually overnight. If not dried, the liquid in the filler will show up in the crevices as gray blotches in the finish. What stain should be used? What will the color look like? We recommend ALLPRO QD Alkyd Stains. They are a quick dry, quick seal line of bleed and fade resistant, penetrating alkyd stains for interior use on bare wood, furniture, cabinets, floors, paneling and other wood surfaces. QD Alkyd Stains are designed for wipe on, brush on or spray applications. But ultimately, the choice of stain is up to the customer. It is wise, however, to test or experiment with the stain on a scrap piece of wood or in an inconspicuous spot like the underside or back of the piece being (re)finished. Soft woods, like pine, will soak up more stain than hard woods (like oak). Stain left on longer will penetrate and leave a darker appearance. It is sometimes possible to "re-wet" an area to help even-out the appearance. Reapplying stain or working with a cloth dampened with alcohol may do the trick. |
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| How long should the stain dry
before applying the sealer? Waiting overnight is a good rule of thumb. But, make sure to check the manufacturer's instructions. ALLPRO offers three different sanding sealers. Each is designed to be used as part of a system. The ALLPRO Alkyd Sanding Sealer does a nice job by itself or under most solvent based varnishes. The Polyurethane Clear SANDING SEALER is designed specifically for use with the ALLPRO Polyurethane CLEAR WOOD VARNISHES. The Acrylic Urethane Waterborne SANDING SEALER is designed for use with the Acrylic Urethane Waterborne CLEAR WOOD VARNISHES. Some ready-mixed stains on the market combine a sealer with the stain. This eliminated the extra step of sealing - provided the stain is the color desired. |
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| Is it necessary to sand again
after sealing? It is wise to lightly sand again, with 150 grit or 220 grit sandpaper after sealing. Most job sites, including new construction, basements and garages are somewhat dusty and can pick up lint as the sealer dries. In addition, most sealers will cause a slight raising of the grain. To assure a smooth end result, it is wise to lightly sand. Extra care should be taken to just remove the trapped dust and raised wood fibers. Excessive sanding may break through the sealer and could result in the stain also being sanded away. Which top coat should be used? The reason for the top coat of varnish is to protect the surface, and to reflect as much light as possible for the desired effect. That is glossy, semi-gloss or satin reflection. Most high quality varnishes, including ALLPRO CLEAR WOOD VARNISHES will expand and contract with the furniture or surface without cracking. Polyurethane varnishes form a hard, durable and water-resistant coating to protect wood surfaces from normal household use including resistance to spotting from water, sodas and other beverages. The ALLPRO Acrylic Urethane Waterborne CLEAR WOOD VARNISHES are superior clear coatings which exhibit outstanding hardness, durability and abrasion resistance. They have low odor and low VOC (volatile organic compound). They are ideal for doors, cabinets, shutters, trim and furniture. A hardness enhancer is also available to increase the hardness of ALLPRO Acrylic Urethanes for high traffic areas such as floors. What is spar varnish? The name typically given to varnishes subjected to outdoor exposure is spar varnish. The name comes from the main mast or spar on sailing vessels. This type of varnish must be able to withstand sunlight and exposure to the elements (particularly rain and snow) without yellowing or cracking. ALLPRO SPAR-PRO® would be a good example. Can I use these same steps to (re)finish my floors? Yes, in a way. The steps will be the same, but the products you use need to be specifically formulated for high traffic areas such as floors. ALLPRO Professional Floor Finish POLYURETHANE VARNISH are high solids, extremely abrasion resistant polyurethane coatings designed for use on floors and other interior surfaces subject to hard wear. These finishes resist heavy foot traffic, scuffing, detergents, household chemicals, rubber burns and boiling water. ALLPRO Professional Floor Finish Quick Dry Polyurethane VARNISH SANDING SEALER is specifically formulated for use under ALLPRO Professional Floor Finish POLYURETHANE VARNISHES on floors and other interior surfaces subject to heavy wear and abrasion. This quick dry sanding sealer can be used on a variety of bare or stained interior wood surfaces including floors, bar top, trim and cabinets. Is there anything else that needs to be done before putting the piece to use? Experienced (re)finishers sometimes finish with an application of paste wax using very fine (#0000) steel wool and a cloth buffing to assure the smoothest possible appearance. The choice is up to the customer. |
| One Final note: Most labels will clearly spell out the steps required to get a smooth finish. The work is easy and the results are quite rewarding. |